Aging is a natural process, and one of the most common signs people notice as the years pass is the deepening of nasolabial folds, the lines that run from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth. These folds can give the face a tired, sagging appearance, and while they’re completely normal, many seek ways to soften their look for a smoother, more youthful complexion.
While in-office treatments like dermal fillers and skin tightening procedures are popular, a solid skincare routine enriched with the right active ingredients can help minimize the appearance of folds, boost skin resilience, and prevent premature deepening of these lines. Let’s explore the best skincare ingredients to target folds, how they work, and how to use them effectively.
What Causes Nasolabial Folds?
Before diving into ingredients, it’s important to understand why nasolabial folds form:
Loss of Collagen and Elastin – As we age, collagen and elastin production decrease, leading to thinner, less bouncy skin that folds more easily.
Volume Loss – Fat pads in the cheeks shift downward with time, accentuating creases around the mouth.
Sun Damage – UV exposure accelerates skin aging, breaking down collagen and elastin.
Lifestyle Factors – Smoking, poor diet, stress, and lack of hydration can make lines appear sooner and deeper.
Facial Movements – Smiling and laughing are beautiful, but repetitive expressions can deepen folds over decades.
Skincare can’t completely erase nasolabial folds, but it can strengthen the skin, improve elasticity, and soften the appearance of these lines.
1. Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, and Prescription Retinoic Acid)
Why they help:
Retinoids are gold-standard anti-aging ingredients. They work by increasing cell turnover, boosting collagen production, and improving skin thickness. By stimulating fibroblasts (the cells that create collagen and elastin), retinoids help reinforce the dermal structure, making folds appear less pronounced over time.
How to use:
Start with an over-the-counter retinol or retinal if you’re new to retinoids.
Apply at night, 2–3 times per week, and increase frequency as tolerated.
Always pair with sunscreen during the day, as retinoids increase sun sensitivity.
Best for: Long-term collagen support and wrinkle prevention.
2. Peptides
Why they help:
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as messengers to the skin, signaling it to repair and produce more collagen and elastin. Certain peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), copper peptides, and acetyl hexapeptide-8, are particularly effective in targeting fine lines and improving skin firmness.
How to use:
Apply peptide serums or moisturizers daily, ideally after cleansing and before heavier creams.
Can be used both morning and night.
Safe to layer with retinoids and vitamin C for maximum effect.
Best for: Supporting collagen and improving skin elasticity without irritation.
3. Hyaluronic Acid
Why they help:
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a humectant that draws water into the skin, instantly plumping and hydrating it. While HA won’t rebuild collagen, it can make folds look less deep by filling in the skin with moisture.
Formulas with multiple molecular weights of HA are best, as smaller molecules penetrate deeper while larger ones hydrate the surface.
How to use:
Apply on slightly damp skin, followed by a moisturizer to lock in hydration.
Use daily in both morning and evening routines.
Best for: Immediate plumping effect and smoother-looking skin.
4. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Why they help:
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radical damage caused by UV radiation and pollution. More importantly, it stimulates collagen synthesis, helping to strengthen the skin structure and reduce visible folds over time.
It also brightens uneven skin tone, which can make nasolabial folds look less prominent.
How to use:
Apply a stabilized vitamin C serum (10–20% concentration) in the morning before sunscreen.
Store vitamin C products in dark, airtight containers to prevent oxidation.
Best for: Brightening skin, preventing collagen breakdown, and boosting firmness.
5. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Why they help:
Niacinamide is a multitasking ingredient known for improving skin barrier function, reducing inflammation, and enhancing elasticity. It supports collagen production and helps skin retain moisture, making it more resistant to creasing and sagging.
How to use:
Apply niacinamide serums (usually 5–10%) in the morning or evening.
Can be combined with most active ingredients, including retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C.
Best for: Strengthening skin barrier and improving firmness.
6. Growth Factors and Stem Cell Extracts
Why they help:
Growth factors are proteins that encourage cell growth, repair, and regeneration. When applied topically, they can stimulate fibroblasts to create more collagen and elastin, leading to smoother, thicker skin. Some skincare lines incorporate plant-based stem cell extracts that mimic growth factor activity.
How to use:
Typically found in high-end serums or creams.
Best used in the evening routine to maximize repair while the skin regenerates overnight.
Best for: Advanced anti-aging support and long-term wrinkle reduction.
7. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Why they help:
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid exfoliate the top layer of skin, promoting cell renewal and improving skin texture. By removing dead skin cells, they allow other active ingredients to penetrate better while giving skin a fresher, more radiant appearance. Over time, AHAs also stimulate collagen production.
How to use:
Use exfoliating toners or serums 2–3 times per week.
Always apply sunscreen, as exfoliation increases sun sensitivity.
Best for: Smoothing skin texture and enhancing the efficacy of other anti-aging ingredients.
8. Ceramides
Why they help:
Ceramides are lipids that naturally occur in the skin barrier. They lock in moisture and prevent environmental damage, which can exacerbate fine lines and folds. While ceramides won’t directly erase folds, they keep skin supple and hydrated, making lines less noticeable.
How to use:
Look for moisturizers rich in ceramides and cholesterol.
Apply after serums to seal in hydration.
Best for: Barrier support and preventing premature skin aging.
9. Sunscreen
Why they help:
The single most important skincare step for nasolabial and all signs of aging is daily sunscreen use. UV damage accelerates collagen breakdown, deepens wrinkles, and makes folds more pronounced. Using sunscreen consistently prevents future damage and preserves the results of active ingredients.
How to use:
Apply broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily, even on cloudy days.
Reapply every 2 hours if outdoors.
Best for: Preventing worsening of folds and overall anti-aging protection.
Tips for Building a Skincare Routine for Nasolabial Folds
Layer wisely – Start with the lightest product (serum) and end with heavier creams.
Be consistent – Results from anti-aging ingredients often take 8–12 weeks to show.
Don’t overdo it – Too many actives at once can irritate the skin, causing inflammation that worsens aging signs.
Combine short-term and long-term strategies – Hyaluronic acid gives immediate plumping, while retinoids and peptides build long-term resilience.
Consider professional treatments – For deeper folds, skincare works best when paired with treatments like microneedling, laser therapy, or fillers.
Final Thoughts
Nasolabial folds are a natural part of the aging process, but the right skincare ingredients can strengthen, hydrate, and rejuvenate the skin to reduce their appearance. Retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide stand out as some of the most effective tools in your anti-aging arsenal. When combined with sun protection and a healthy lifestyle, they help preserve firmness, smoothness, and radiance.
While skincare alone may not erase deep folds, it can significantly improve skin health and prevent further progression—keeping your face looking refreshed and youthful for years to come.
